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It’s 1:15 on a balmy and brilliant abatement afternoon in Canton, and the bench bar and lounge breadth of the Fork & Wrench is arranged with about 30 people.

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No, it’s not an appointment affair or a billow of backward lunchgoers cat-and-mouse for a table admiral at the Boston Street hotspot.

There’s a TV bartering actuality made, and instead of the accepted cool, aphotic ambience, the arena is one of lights, cables, ataxia and a ample camera continuing in the centermost of the allowance bound bottomward and focused on a canteen of beer in the average of a amazing board bar.

Standing alongside the camera is Jim Bartolomeo, the camerman/director whose resume includes alive on the aboriginal division of HBO’s “The Sopranos” and Barry Levinson’s affection blur “Sleepers.” Scattered throughout the allowance in dejected jeans, T-shirts, assignment shirts and baseball caps are aggregation associates who accept becoming their stripes on Baltimore-based alternation such as NBC’s “Homicide: Life on the Street” and HBO’s “The Wire.”

But all that affairs actuality is the beer. The canteen of beer on the bar is the alpha and omega of the aing four hours at the Fork & Wrench. That and the dozens of backup bottles that will be dressed, fabricated up, back-lit, side-lit, primped, primed, misted and beaded with an eye dropper afore actuality brought in advanced of the camera to booty its place.

Bartolomeo is authoritative a alternation of ads for Lager and Ablaze Lager from Yuengling, the Pennsylvania brewery founded in 1829. And Bartolomeo says he’s bright clear about his mission.

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“I was answerable with authoritative the beer attending awesome,” the 46-year-old arch of Baltimore’s Protagonist Films said. “That’s what came all the way bottomward from [brewery owner] Dick Yuengling: ‘We’re activity to band abroad all the acting, all of the artifice from these scripts. And we’re aloof activity to accumulate the focus on the beer itself. So, the beer has to attending alarming every time it’s on screen.’”

A lot has been accounting in this cavalcade about the awakening of the bounded TV assembly association in Baltimore and Maryland aback HBO started authoritative “Game Change” actuality in the summer of 2011. And that was followed aftermost year by the exceptional cable channel’s “VEEP” and Netflix’s $100 actor “House of Cards” ambience up shop.

But while not as affluent or alluring as prime-time productions featuring Hollywood stars, the affectionate of TV bartering assignment actuality done at the Fork & Wrench for Yuengling is allotment of that comeback, too.

Bartolomeo says he assassin 30 to 35 workers for three canicule of assignment on the shoot — best of them from the Baltimore area. He could accept attempt it in Philadelphia, which would accept meant that few of the bodies in the allowance would accept worked. The Yuengling activity is one of 23 Protagonist is alive on this year, he says.

And admitting it’s abate in scale, the abilities are not all that different. Instead of all the lights, lenses, talents and academician ability of workers directed toward, say, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, as she walks assimilate the “VEEP” soundstage in Columbia to shoot a scene, actuality it’s on the canteen or canteen of beer sitting on the bar as it’s actuality anxiously lit and fabricated accessible for its close-up, Mr. DeMille.

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In the apple of TV advertising, the aisle to a perfect-looking canteen or canteen of beer has beneath to do with aloof the appropriate antithesis of hops and barley aback at the brewery than it does precision-cut plexiglass and a turkey baster in the easily of a accomplished aqueous stylist.

And so, back Bartolomeo was assassin for the new Yuengling lager spots, one of the aboriginal things he did was seek out Jonathan Lee, a prop adept and tabletop aliment stylist from Los Angeles with his own cloudburst machine, and Kent Eanes, a ancestor from Virginia, who “has a abundant eye and employs beatnik approaches” in the “use of light.”

“Part of our ambition was to accomplish Yuengling angle afar from added beer spots,” Bartolomeo, a Loyola University Maryland alum said. “So, we absitively to try to actualize the activity of an close glow, with the ablaze actualization to be appearing from central the canteen or the canteen out.”

Cue the plexiglass.

Much of the accoutrement time amid shots at the Fork & Wrench complex Eanes acid white plexiglass into the appearance of glasses or bottles. The cutouts had to be hardly smaller, so that they would be airy to the camera.

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“And we would again strategically abode that abaft the canteen or canteen and hit it with a appropriate ablaze off-camera, so that it would actualize this nice apple-pie afterglow that would address through the canteen or glass,” Bartolomeo explained.

The lighting angles and the “special ablaze off-camera” are allotment of the “bag of tricks” that Eanes and Bartolomeo are not sharing.

But the accent of the allowance for abundant of the afternoon was: cut plexiglass, abode plexiglass, ablaze the beer and attending through the camera. Then: talk, trim plexiglass, alter plexiglass, re-light the beer and attending through the camera some more.

The administrator did explain how they adapted the action application thinner circulation cardboard instead of plexiglass and adhering it to a canteen of lager so that they could get the aforementioned affectionate of close afterglow with a canteen as it was filmed sliding above the bar for addition Yuengling atom attempt after in the day.

But the bigger bag of tricks at the Fork & Wrench belonged to Lee.

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“He campaign with a lot of gear,” Bartolomeo said. “I anticipate he asked us to address 14 cases of accessory through Fed Ex from L.A. He had a appropriate truck, and he had a aeriform tank, or some arrangement of air-gas tank, so that he could barrage the beer into a canteen rather than aloof cloudburst it out of bottle. And that was done from a appropriate barge he had that the camera could see into.”

If Lee isn’t a perfectionist, he does a appealing acceptable apery of one. He asked Yuengling to accelerate him six cases of its best-looking apparent bottles, and then, he spent a day aloft accession in Baltimore accession appropriate labels he had fabricated out of a cardboard that would attending bigger on-camera back the plexiglass-juiced ablaze was cloudburst through it.

For all his technology and amaranthine arrangement of bottles and glasses, though, he spent a lot of time at the Fork & Wrench alive the beer with what looked like a simple turkey baster.

“There are a cardinal of means to ‘activate’ a beer,” Lee said, bedlam at the baster question. “I told these guys that my way of activating a beer and authoritative it attending acceptable on camera is to assignment with allowance temperature beer.”

When you cascade a algid canteen of beer, he said, the canteen gets arctic from its own condensation. But for camera purposes, it’s sometimes too blubbery and diffused to see the beer clearly. It can’t be controlled.

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“But if I alpha with allowance temperature beer and add the abstract to the able akin [externally], that’s all beneath control,” he explained. “But I don’t put a arch on it until camera’s rolling.”

Cue the turkey baster.

“When they say they’re accessible to roll, I stick the baster in, I pump it up actual boring so I can ascendancy the appearance and the acme of the head,” Lee said. “And that way you can get a assertive array and acme in that specific canteen because it varies from canteen to canteen and artefact to product, beer to beer, et cetera.”

Within that one “et cetera” from Lee, there seems to be at atomic a actor added variables complex in creating the absolute TV angel of a beer — a video apparition so active and acute that you can about aftertaste the smooth, affluent lager casual over your argot and into your throat.

“You know, beer is the product, and you can never balloon that,” Bartolomeo said back asked about appropriate challeges in authoritative the ads that are accepted to admission in January.

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“You know, how some axioms in Hollywood say never assignment with accouchement or food, because it aloof consumes added time. Well, aqueous has its own different challenges above that. Yeah, its own actual different challenges above that.”

[email protected]

Twitter.com/davidzurawik

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